I've been to The Italian Kitchen Newlands many times. The first time I stopped by I was struck by the fact that most of the couples and groups seated looked to be two things: Italian, and in the age bracket above fifty. There were some beaming young blonde couples and couplets but the place felt distinctly old-school European in patronage. This is always a strong endorsement of any purportedly Italian restaurant.
The second indicator was the type of ingredients populating the menu: wild mushrooms, assorted berries, beer sauce, bocconcini, porcini mushroom sauce. This all pricks the ears and tongue of a food lover.
I have been back many, many times – in fact, some waiters refer to me as being part of the furniture. I don't mind, the furniture is rather handsome. Having oft proclaimed theirs the best pizza in Cape Town, I have, on occasion, been challenged on this point. Most recently, a well-travelled musician raised his highly raisable eyebrows when I went all superlative about their pizza and pastas. Turns out Mr. Dente was born and raised in Italy (not the North, he specifies).
Right, that's it. I needed an authentically bred opinion.
We arrive just before six on Friday – just in time for the conclusion of what I call their weekday Pizza Happy Hour (*weekdays between 16h00 and 18h00 most of their pizzas are half price, and you can combine pizzas [naturally paying for the higher priced option]). Mr. Dente immediately starts paging through the menu, scrutinizing the ingredient combinations.. “Hmm.” (delivered dubiously) then, “Interesting” and finally:
“No-no. Parmesan? No, look here (shows me the description of the Seafood risotto.) In Italy, adding parmesan to This? NO. you would simply be arrested.”
We were set for an interesting evening..
I opted for the half Dodici (tomato, feta, bacon, mozzarella and avo) and the rather eccentric concoction called the Undici (tomato, mozzarella, chicken, assorted berries and camembert – Dente frowned at the mere mention of berries), while my Italian friend opted for the Chourizo (tomato, mozarella, chorizo, pepperdews, caramalized onion and chili) and Carpaccio (Game carpaccio, caramalized onion and avo).
Most pizza makers go American when combining feta and bacon – exploiting the potentially vulgar taste combination by using huge, sweaty pieces of bacon to maximize the collision between creamy saltiness and fleshy sweet. The Italian Kitchen opts for a gentler approach – slender pieces of non-fatty bacon and a subtle feta, relying more on an intrigue of spices. But it was the Undici, with its inspiring combination of camembert and berries (reduced to a highly textured, fleshy sauce) wonderfully calmed by the more neutral pollo and mozzarella.
Mr. Dente seemed arrested, visually studying the pizza folded in his hand after each carefully chewed mouthful, “mMM.”
While we sip on our Grappa, which he insisted we try – a North Italian beverage, similar to Schnapps, used to round off a hearty meal – usually one that's heavy-set in starch and meats, I ask him what he thought.
“No it was good. Very good.”
My layman's opinion rates it much higher up the adjective ladder.
“Wait till you try their pastas, bra.”
The Italian Kitchen is situated in Dean street, just off Main Road, Newlands. Treat yourself to authentic deliciousness.
Ps: Their Homemade Chocolate Shot is something to die for, and has on occasion been successfully employed as a substitute engagement ring. Or so I'm told. Served hot, in an elegantly tall shot glass, it contains simply, and devastatingly, cream and dark chocolate, infused with Amaretto.
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